Subtle (took me a while to grasp how significant it was) is the huge new dynamic range, which basically means I can hear everything (but requires near 0db level settings, hence the Peak limiters engaged on the Venu!). I wrote up a short review on ASR - see Amir's OktoDAC (prototype) test & review thread over there.īut basically, coming from an ok but middling/poor spec Pre/Pro, the improvement is dramatic and subtle.ĭramatic is vastly improved clarity, HF, and imaging/separation, cleaner, sharper deep bass. Since this is all relatively new (January), and PC/JR is not a good source for surround disc DTS/MHD decoding (works fine for 7.1 DSD files, but I don't have many of those - yet), I've mostly been listening in 2.1 Stereo. Since the Venu has both AES digital and analog inputs, I can use the Okto's AES Ch1&2 outputs to bypass the Venu's ADC for those (but still use analog for the subwoofer input). So, basically using the Venu360 downstream of the Okto for main + sub xovers, roomEQ (Venu AutoEQ, with REW suggested tweeks). (If/when I get around to roomEQ on the surround channels, I'll probably do that in JRiver.) Remaining surround channels analog direct to surround amp from Okto. (All my amps (and Venu) are balanced inputs ( important).) The Okto allows for a pretty special signal stream.Ĭh1,2 via AES to Venu360 for bi-amp crossovers (+ Room EQ, peak limiting, etc etc)Ĭh 4 subwoofer (analog) to Venu 360 for subwoofer crossover (+ subharmonic synth for old recordings, peak limiting, etc, could also mix from main channels if I wanted to). I'm running a 7.1 surround system, with bi-amped mains + subwoofer.
I think it took longer to type it than to set it! However, the older, non-'2' model (DriveRack PA vs the PA2) does not have network connectivity, and I think it'd suck to have to make these changes via the front panel controls and display. In my case, I changed the levels of some of the outputs to help balance out the differences in the amps (one SS, one tube), which took a few seconds. Next, if you have a mic, analyze the setup. This is done on my iPad's screen by touching the channel you want to set and dragging the 'dot' (the actual crossover point) to where you want it. I set the mid-high crossover to 700Hz with a slope of 24dB (per ADS), and the subwoofer crossover was set to 40Hz with a 48dB slope. I chose 3-way / mono sub, or however it's worded. Here's how easy setup via iPad was: I knew the crossovers points and slopes of the crossovers in the speakers I was converting to bi-amp. I was resolving a connection issue in my setup, and it was far easier to press a button right at my amps than to do it on my preamp. Click to expand.I have touched the front panel buttons a couple times, but it was only the channel mutes (other than initial network configuration, etc).